Why is Shell Cordovan leather so expensive?

 

$100 USD for one square foot. That is the price for it. Let's take a closer look at Shell Cordovan leather to understand why it comes with such a high price tag.

 

When it comes to leather products, cordovan is often considered to be one of the best materials for shoes, in our case, watch straps. You might be curious about what makes this type of leather so special that it can fetch such high prices. At first glance, cordovan looks different from other leather types. It has a smooth, lustrous appearance and a rich color. But is this the only reason for its high price point, or does it have other unique qualities that set it apart from standard cowhide? 

What is it?

To answer this, we need to start with the basic question of what cordovan leather is. It's also sometimes referred to as "shell cordovan." Cordovan leather is a type of leather made from the hindquarters of horsehide. The term "shell" refers to the part of the hide that is split horizontally to remove the grain. The term "cordovan" comes from the Spanish city of Córdoba, which means "from Córdoba." Unlike other leather, which is usually taken from the outer hide of the animal, cordovan comes from a membrane located in between two epidermis layers in the rear quarters of a horse (also known as the a**).

            Raw Hides of Shell Cordovan | Courtesy of ashlandleather.com

Like other natural leather products, the usable size of cordovan leather depends on the overall dimensions of the skin. However, despite its similarities to other types of leather, cordovan leather is known for its high price. To understand why, let's explore the history of cordovan leather.

 

History of Shell Cordovan

Leather has been utilized for various purposes since 2200 BC, but the first recorded use of horse leather dates back to 7th-century Spain. Both the Visigoths and the Moors used horse leather during this time. Skilled craftsmen in the 16th and 17th centuries began creating ornate horse leather goods like trunks, shields, and armor, turning the Spanish city of Córdoba into a renowned location for leather tanning. To this day, Córdoba's artisans, such as Meryan, maintain these traditions. Spanish royalty coveted cordovan leather for its qualities, beauty, and durability, and this influenced other royal families to purchase it. It wasn't until the 19th century that cordovan leather was explicitly linked to tanned horsehide. German and Dutch tanners arrived in the US in the mid-1800s with their spiegelware, or "mirror wear," which referred to cordovan leather's mirror-like shine when polished. By now, you should know how these tanners became known as "cordwainers."

 

Cordwainers in Colonial America | Courtesy of revolutionarywarjournal.com

How is it made?

Have you ever wondered how cordovan leather is made? It's a crazy long process that takes over six months and involves more than a hundred steps for each piece! One crucial step is tanning, which helps preserve the hides and brings out desirable characteristics. First, the workers hand-select the best portions of salted horse hides. Then they remove the hair using a chemical process and pickle them for 24 hours. After that, they're tanned in large pits using a solution made of chestnut and quebracho tree bark (and some resins). This type of tanning is called "vegetable tanning" because it uses tanning from natural vegetative sources.

So, when they want to tan hides, they put them in these frames that shake them up constantly. That way, the tanning happens evenly. They leave the hides in there for about a month and then take them out to shave off this layer on top. After that, they put them back in the frames for another month with an even stronger tanning solution. It can't be rushed, though. It takes time for the tannins to soak in. And even after all that, the hides need about four more months of work. They have to color and polish them by hand and keep pressing and resting them until they're just right.

After putting in six months of hard work, we finally have our hides ready to sell to manufacturers. This is where we can see the unique qualities of shell cordovan leather come through in the finished product. One of the things that makes it stand out is the glossy surface - and that's not just from pressing and polishing. The leather's pores are small and tightly packed, which gives it that extra special shine that it so notorious for.

Screw down crown? No thanks

One thing that has remained unchanged is the durability of cordovan leather. This is because it undergoes a rigorous tanning process that makes it naturally water-resistant. Although it may not be completely waterproof, it can withstand a lot of water without getting damaged. Pretty impressive, right?

 

The Colors, distinct look

Next, we will discuss cordovan leather, which has a unique tone due to the natural tannins used in the tanning process. This leather ages beautifully and develops a stunning patina over time. Unlike other hides, cordovan leather does not absorb colored dyes well, so it is typically found in shades of brown from the natural tanning process. However, darker colors can also be achieved, including black. The color that cordovan leather is most famous for is a deep, almost rosy burgundy hue also called "cordovan." This particular color will change over time, shifting from burgundy brown to revealing more red undertones and eventually developing lustrous highlights resembling cherries. It's important to note that cordovan can refer to both the color and the leather itself.

 Shell Cordovan Burgundy, (the cordovan)

 Shell Cordovan Brown

 

 Shell Cordovan Green

 

Shell Cordovan Black

Why so expensive

Have you ever wondered why cordovan leather is so expensive? The answer lies in the limited supply of horse hides, which are only produced in a few select places around the world. This scarcity creates a high demand for the material, driving up the price.

Additionally, the tanning process for cordovan leather is complex and labor-intensive, taking six months and requiring skilled tanners to handwork the hides. This expertise and years of experience also contribute to the high cost of cordovan products.

Furthermore, only a small portion of the horse hide can be used for shell cordovan, making it even rarer and more expensive. On average, the price for cordovan leather is around $100 per square foot. 

 

Final Word

We offer the most competitive pricing for ready-made shell cordovan straps as well as custom made to order straps leaving your imagination express what you want for your beloved watch. From scratch, by choosing the following: 

• type of leather 
• color
• style of stitch
• type of lining (the leather at the back)
• thread color
• size
• thickness
• length
• type of spring bars
• numerous styles of buckles

  Here is some inspiration for you.

 

In conclusion, when it comes to the remarkable process of crafting shell cordovan, it's clear that no detail is overlooked. From meticulous tanning to skillful finishing, this leather truly stands in a league of its own. So, fellow watch enthusiasts, remember: when it comes to quality, durability, and style, don't horse around - choose shell cordovan for an exquisite experience that will leave you trotting confidently in your strap of choice.